Guinea Pig Diet & Food Safety Master List

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By Priya Nair (RVN) and Lachlan Ortega · Last updated 17 May 2026

This is the page we reach for when somebody messages us at 11pm saying “the guinea pig ate the kid’s [whatever] — what do I do?” It’s our team’s working food list, kept in alphabetical order, with portion sizes that work for an average 900g-1.1kg adult guinea pig.

If the food you’re worrying about isn’t here, the safe default is “don’t, and ring an exotic vet”. Guinea pigs cannot vomit, so anything that’s gone in has to come out the long way.

The 80/15/5 rule (recap)

  • 80% hay — unlimited grass hay (Timothy, orchard, meadow). Alfalfa only for pigs under 6 months or pregnant sows.
  • 15% fresh veg — about 1 cup per pig per day, ideally split into two meals.
  • 5% pellets — 1/8 cup per day, plain Timothy-based, no muesli mixes.
  • Treats — fruit, occasional treats. Not daily. The single biggest cause of guinea pig obesity we see is “just one grape” turning into ten.

Vitamin C requirements: ~10-30mg/day for a healthy adult, more for pregnant or recovering pigs. Most pellets list Vit C content but it oxidises within weeks of opening — never rely on pellets alone. A piece of bell pepper daily covers it.

Quick safe/unsafe table — everything we’ve reviewed

FoodSafe?How muchDetail
Aloe veraNoneLatex irritates the gut
Asparagus1-2 spears, 2x/weekHigh in oxalates — small amounts
AvocadoNoneToxic — persin + fat content
Banana⚠️1 thin slice, 1x/weekHigh in sugar
Bell pepper (capsicum)1/8 pepper dailyVit C champion — daily staple
Blueberries2-3 berries, 2x/weekAntioxidants, mild sugar
BreadNoneNo nutritional value, causes bloat
Broccoli⚠️1 small floret, 1x/weekCauses gas in larger amounts
Cabbage⚠️1 small leaf, 1x/weekGas — savoy worse than green
Candy / lolliesNoneSugar, additives, no use
Carrot⚠️1 small piece, 2x/weekHigh sugar. Tops are great daily.
Cauliflower⚠️1 small floret, 1x/weekGas — leaves better than head
CelerySmall piece, choppedChop strings or they catch in throat
Cherries⚠️Half a cherry, no stoneStones contain cyanide compounds
ChocolateNoneTheobromine toxicity
Collard greens1-2 leaves, 3x/weekGreat Vit C + calcium balance
Corn (kernels)⚠️A few kernels, occasionalStarchy — limit. Husks/silks safer.
Corn husks & silksSmall amount, 2x/weekFibre rich, low sugar
Cranberries⚠️1-2, occasionalTart, low sugar — fresh only
Cucumber1-2 slices dailyHydrating, low cal
Dairy (cheese, milk, yog)NoneCannot digest dairy
Garlic / onion / chives / leek familyNoneToxic to red blood cells
Grapes⚠️1 grape halved, 1x/weekHigh sugar, but loved
Green beans2-3 beans, 2x/weekChoose stringless, fresh
Iceberg lettuceNoneCauses diarrhea — water + nothing else
Kiwi1 small slice, 1-2x/weekExcellent Vit C
Kale⚠️1 leaf, 2x/weekHigh calcium — alternate with lower-cal greens
Lettuce (romaine/green leaf)2-3 leaves dailyNOT iceberg. Romaine ideal.
Mango⚠️1 small piece, 1x/weekVery sweet — treat only
Mint1-2 leaves, 2-3x/weekSome pigs love, some refuse
MushroomsNoneMany varieties toxic — never risk
Nuts / seedsNoneChoking + fat, no nutritional fit
ParsleySmall sprig, 3x/weekHigh Vit C and calcium — rotate
Peas (fresh)2-3 peas, 1-2x/weekPod is fine too
Pineapple⚠️1 small piece, 1x/weekAcidic — small only
Potato (raw or cooked)NoneSolanine + starch
Pumpkin⚠️1 small cube, 1x/weekCooked safer than raw
Raisins⚠️1-2, 1x/week maxConcentrated sugar
Raspberries1-2 berries, 2x/weekLeaves edible too
RhubarbNoneOxalic acid — leaves especially toxic
Spinach⚠️1 small leaf, 1x/weekHigh oxalates — limit
Strawberries1 small strawberry, 2x/weekHulls fine, leaves great
Sweet potato⚠️1 thin slice raw, 1x/weekCooked OK in tiny amounts
Tomato (red flesh)1 small piece, 2-3x/weekNO stems, leaves or green tomato
Watermelon (flesh)⚠️1 small piece, 1x/weekRind is actually safer (less sugar)
Zucchini1-2 slices, 2-3x/weekLow cal, hydrating

The “absolutely never” list

These show up in our emergency emails most often. If your guinea pig has eaten any of these in a meaningful quantity, ring an exotic vet now:

  • Avocado — persin + extreme fat content. Even small amounts cause distress.
  • Onion family — onion, garlic, leek, shallots, chives. Damages red blood cells.
  • Chocolate — theobromine. As toxic to guinea pigs as it is to dogs, gram for gram worse because of body weight.
  • Iceberg lettuce — not “toxic”, but causes severe diarrhea in volume.
  • Rhubarb (especially leaves) — oxalic acid.
  • Potato and potato leaves — solanine.
  • Mushrooms — risk of misidentification, not worth the upside.
  • Dairy — guinea pigs lose lactase after weaning. Yogurt drops should never have existed.
  • Meat or fish — they’re herbivores. Their gut is not built for it.
  • Anything cooked, salted, sugared, or seasoned — including “human food” leftovers.
  • Bread, crackers, biscuits, cereal — empty starch + sugar, contributes to obesity and dental issues.
  • Tomato leaves & stems, green tomato — the red flesh is fine, but anything green on a tomato plant has solanine.
  • Houseplants in general — assume toxic unless you’ve confirmed otherwise.

The daily plate — what we actually feed

Here’s a real week of feeding for our three pigs. We rotate so that no veg gets boring, but also so no single high-oxalate or high-calcium green is overdoing it.

DayMorningEvening
MondayRomaine + bell pepper + corianderCucumber + parsley + a few grapes
TuesdayGreen-leaf lettuce + bell pepper + carrot topCelery + 2 strawberries
WednesdayCollard green + bell pepper + dillCucumber + basil
ThursdayRomaine + bell pepper + a few blueberriesZucchini + parsley
FridayGreen beans + bell pepper + cilantroCarrot top + small piece of mango
SaturdayRomaine + bell pepper + kale (small)Cucumber + raspberries
SundayBell pepper + mixed herbs + zucchiniTomato (small) + parsley

Hay: brands, types, what we buy

  • First-cut Timothy — coarse, stalky, great for tooth wear. Default for adult pigs.
  • Second-cut Timothy — softer, leafier, better for picky eaters.
  • Third-cut Timothy — very soft, more leaf less stalk. Best for sick or elderly pigs.
  • Orchard grass — slightly sweeter, great variety.
  • Meadow hay — mixed grasses, what most UK/AU buyers will see locally.
  • Alfalfa — high calcium, high protein. Pups under 6 months, pregnant/nursing sows, or as a recovery food. Not long-term for adults.

Treats that aren’t terrible

Most commercial guinea pig “treats” are sugar bombs. If you want a reward food for hand-taming or floor time:

  • A piece of bell pepper (Vit C bonus)
  • A single blueberry
  • A small wedge of cucumber
  • Hay-stuffed paper roll (enrichment + food in one)
  • Dried herbs from a clean source (dill, basil)

When diet goes wrong

The two diet-related emergencies we see most often:

1. GI stasis from low hay intake. Pig eats less, poops smaller and fewer, stops drinking. Without fast intervention (sub-cut fluids, motility drugs, critical care formula syringed in), this kills within 24-48 hours. Hay intake matters more than anything else on this list.

2. Bladder stones from too much calcium. Especially common in pigs fed lots of alfalfa, kale, or spinach with hard water. Symptoms: blood in urine, hunching when peeing, weight loss. Surgery is the usual treatment.

A balanced rotating diet of mostly hay, with leafy greens and bell pepper as daily staples and high-calcium veg like kale and parsley used in moderation, avoids almost all diet-related problems we see in clinic.

Sources

We get asked — guinea pig food FAQ

How much fresh veg should a guinea pig eat per day?

About 1 cup of fresh vegetables per pig per day, ideally split into two meals (morning and evening). Hay should still be 80% of the diet and available unlimited. Pellets are a small daily addition, not a meal replacement.

What’s the most important nutrient for guinea pigs?

Vitamin C. Guinea pigs cannot manufacture their own and must get it daily from fresh food. Bell pepper is the gold-standard source. Vitamin C in pellets oxidises within weeks of opening, so don’t rely on pellets alone. See our food safety master list for daily portion guidance.

What signs should send me to a vet?

  • Not eating for 12+ hours (GI stasis — emergency)
  • Not pooping (or smaller, drier poops than usual)
  • Crusty eyes, wheezing, or sneezing more than once a day (URI)
  • Hunched posture, fluffed coat, hiding
  • Sudden weight loss (weigh weekly to catch this early)
  • Blood in urine, hunching when peeing

A pig that hasn’t eaten in 12 hours is an emergency, not a “wait and see” situation. More detail in our vet warning signs pillar.

Related reading

Page last updated 17 May 2026. We re-check our pet-care content regularly and update when something changes.

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